Friday, August 31, 2007

Kao Tao

Kao Tao is a tiny island (about 20 square km) off the Gulf coast of Thailand. Everything I'd heard about it made it sound beautiful so decided to brave the 72km boat trip and get over there! Arrived just in time....but it was worth it! The weather was amazing and the beaches had white sand with crystal clear water. Headed over to the 'less busy' side of the island but found it to be so busy that there was nowhere to stay! After looking around for ages, there was a cancellation and we ended up with a bamboo hut with a beautiful view across Tanote Bay :)

The snorkeling just off the beach was supposed to be amazing so I finally had a chance to use the mask and fins I'd been lugging around for the last month. The coral formations were pretty cool but the amazing thing about snorkeling off Kao Tao is the variety of sea life you see! I saw Jellyfish, huge Tuna, Angelfish, Batfish, Triggerfish and lots more. However, on the best snorkeling session I've ever had, I was lucky enough to see a Black Tipped Shark!! It was about 1.5 meters long and was very fast in the water. I sped off after it, following it into more shallow water, as it chased a fish. I must have got a bit too close as I seemed to put it off its attack and it missed the fish it was after. It then proceeded to swim slowly towards me. At this time I didn't have a clue whether they were dangerous or not so had a tense but amazing few seconds as the shark cruised right past me, only about 3 meters away!! After I got out I asked the guys at our accommodation reception (which doubled as a dive center) about Black Tip Sharks. They said they were harmless to humans but I was lucky to see one as the last two parties of snorkelers they took out shark hunting hadn't seen any!!

We were on the island about 5 days and, other than lots of snorkeling, we climbed some small mountains, walked along the rocks to other bays and lazed on the beach....a nice relaxing end to my Thailand trip....

Yes, you read right, I'm now leaving Thailand. Not to come back to England as originaly planned - I'm not quite ready to come home yet. I've decided to raid the bank to do one last trip to New Zealand, which is one place I REALLY wanted to go (and thought I'd miss out on). So I'm back in Bangkok and tonight I fly back to Australia on the way to NZ. I'm actually gonna try to pick up some work in Aus as my working visa is still valid (and I have NO money!) and might even fit an outback trip in there somewhere. In a few weeks I'm off to NZ and finally fly home on the 22nd of November!




Kao Tao from 300m up!



Tanote Bay, where I stayed



Ko Pangang, a bigger island to the South



Sipping drinks on the beach as the sun goes down is a great way to relax....

Saturday, August 25, 2007

Elephant Rider!!

Pai is a little town right in the hills and mountains of the far North. Its only about 140km from Chiang Mai but due to the steep winding hill roads the ride took over 3 hours! We found a place to stay and hit the tour shops to organise elephant trekking! We found a small family company who only had one elephant, so we'd be the only ones in the jungle and river on our tour!

The next day we got up ridiculously early and were picked up by the owner of the company for the short drive to the elephant camp. We came round the corner and saw this huge elephant being fed sugar cane, her name was Boonmaa and she was our elephant for the morning! We headed out at about 9am into the jungle on the top of a big seat on Boonmaa's back. We were about 4 meters up and as we entered the jungle there were loads of butterflies everywhere. The guide was always speaking to the elephant and they had a language which enabled him to control her so perfectly, he even got her to lift up a tree that had fallen over the path! She was so good but half way through they had what can only be described as an argument, which went on for about 5 minutes! Some sugar cane cured that and we were on our way again. At the half way point the guide took some pictures and got me to sit on Boonmaa's head! It was a lot more bumpy but loads of fun. We headed out of the jungle and back to the camp where the guide removed the seat and put a little hand rope in its place. We jumped on Boonmaa's back and headed for the river!

As soon as we got to the river we gave the guide our cameras. He jumped off at the shore and shouted commands for Boonmaa to go into the river. She loved the cool river (it was about 36 degrees) and legged it straight in. We wandered along a bit, thinking it was nice, then we were suddenly drenched with water as Boonmaa squirted us in the face! Next the guide got her to sit down, jump up, roll to the side and basically try to throw us off....she succeeded many times! Each time we'd have to wade back up the fast flowing river and jump back on, usually while being squirted by our cheeky elephant! It was so much fun!!!

After the river we were carried back to the camp where we cleaned ourselves off in water from some nearby hot springs, lovely :) That afternoon we returned to our hut and played with the baby monkey that lived in the complex. It was only 4 months old and very cheeky!! In the evening we had a BBQ with the other guests, fresh fish with lemon, mmmmmm!

The next day (a couple of days ago) we embarked on the mother of all journeys, the 26 hour journey from Pai South to the beautiful island of Ko Tao....





Our hut was called 'The Beatle's Tour'....



Boonmaa!



An action shot, just entering the jungle with our guide



Me sitting on Boonmaa's head!



Just having a rest



Getting soaked in the water!



Just before we fell off!



My new friend!



The little monkey that lived with us!



She kept stealing our stuff...



...but got tired out quite easilly

Friday, August 24, 2007

Being Spiritual in Chiang Mai

After another less than enjoyable 12 hour bus ride we made it to Chiang Mai, the biggest city in the North of Thailand. That evening, while walking back from dinner, we came across an elephant just walking along the road! At night the handlers lead their elephants around and tourists pay to feed them sugar cane and bananas.

The next day we rented a motorbike and headed to Doi Inthanon, the highest mountain in Thailand, to see some waterfalls on the way to the top. Unfortunately, it was ridiculously expensive to enter the national park (which was the whole mountain) so we bribed the ranger to let us visit the first (and most spectacular) waterfall, Mae Klang Waterfall, which was huge!

The following day we visited Wat U Mong, a Buddhist meditation temple comprising of long tunnels, built into a flat hill, that lead to meditation chambers. While we were walking around the grounds we could hear the monks chanting and praying!

Our final motorbike day saw us head up Doi Suthep, another big mountain. On the top is a temple complex which you reach by climbing 306 steps. The golden stupa on the top looked amazing shining in the sun and the views of Chiang Mai were spectacular. We then went a little down the other side of the mountain to visit a 'hill tribe'. Unfortunately it wasn't exactly the rustic old-style hill tribe we expected.... the huts had satellite dishes coming out the roofs! We did find one area that was quite authentic and met a guy making crossbows out of bamboo. I was able to fire arrows at an apple hanging about 20m away and hit it on my third try! On the way down the mountain we saw another two sets of waterfalls and a Buddhist pray area.

One of the things we really wanted to do was an elephant trek through the forest. All the treks in Chiang Mai only lasted for 1 hour and involved walking around an overgrown field. After consulting the Lonely Planet book we decided to head right up into the mountains to a place called Pai, where we could go elephant trekking for up to 3 hours!




The stupa on top of the hill at Wat U Mong



Looking through the main tunnel at Wat U Mong



Inside a meditation Tunnel



A meditation chamber



There were lots of little statues of kings everywhere!



A temple near us in Chiang Mai



!!!



Paintings on the roof of the temple


















Friday, August 17, 2007

Back in Bangkok again!

Arrived in Bangkok to meet up with Sara, who'd arrive in Thailand the next day. I also needed to find the one and only branch of STA Travel in Thailand to change the date for my return to London (22nd November!). STA was about as far away from where I was staying as you could get, so I took a boat down the river (for the first time). The river was brown with pollution but it was good fun and so quick!

Its funny how you meet people when travelling.... On the Cambodia-Bangkok trip I met an American guy and a Canadian guy. After swapping stories and chatting we decided to all get accommodation together for the night. After grabbing some food we sat in a "bar" (which was actually a few plastic chairs in the road) and bumped into a couple of guys from South Africa. After the usual 'where have you been?', 'where are you going?' type questions we asked them what they did for a job back home... 'We grow weed!' was the reply! Apparently they just grow weed full time and ship it out all over the world, making a hell of a lot of money in the process. Apparently they bribe the police and government officials if they ever have trouble and were talking about it as casually as if they had just told us they were estate agents. It was fascinating hearing all the stories! That night the Canadian guy hooked up with one of the Thai girls that ran the bar we were sitting in. The next morning she took us for some of the best Thai food in the area, its good to have connections!

Anyway, over the next few days I saw a few more sights of Bangkok. One was Wat Pho, which houses a reclining Buddha over 40m long, with 108 little pictures made from mother of pearl on its feet! Very interesting.... Another was the Golden Mount, an artificial mountain about 150m high with great views over Bangkok and a temple at the top.

After a few days it was time to leave Bangkok again and head North for Chiang Mai....




The boat I took down the river!



The Temple of Dawn



A cool bridge in Bangkok



The huge head of the reclining Buddha at Wat Pho



My best attempt at taking a picture of the whole reclining Buddha



The Buddha's feet, with 108 mother of pearl pictures!



The designs were amazing



A temple near the Golden Mountain



The temple was square inside with lots of Buddha statues inside



The entrance to the Golden Mount with a minature mount on top!



The big golden stupa at the top of the Golden Mount

Wednesday, August 15, 2007

A ten hour bus ride for only 3 pounds!

So the ride back from Siam Rep to Bangkok was quite eventful.... I paid only $6 (US dollars, about 3 quid) for the bus journey to the boarder where I was planning to take a slow train to Bangkok for a mere 48 baht (about 80p).

The bus journey was ridiculous but very fun. The air con was non-existent but I was sat by a big window that opened all the way and let in a nice cool breeze (actually I almost fell out at one point when we hit a big bump). Unfortunately it also let in all the dirt from the road and I was covered in a layer of brown mud by the end of it! Anyway, I spent the whole journey hanging out the window; waving at the locals; and looking at the beautiful countryside of Cambodia. There are seemingly endless rice fields and you can see for miles as a lot of the country is dead flat.

About half way through the journey was stopped by another two flat things....flat tires! We suddenly stopped in the middle of nowhere and looked on in amazement as the drivers removed two completely flat tires that had gone at the same time! Spare tires? we only had one. We waited on the side of the road as the crowd of locals watching this spectacle increased and after about an hour another bus pulled up. Unfortunately it seemed that the other bus driver didn't want to give up his only spare tire and shot off! So we had no choice but to put one spare and one flat back on and limp it to the next town. We finally got there and got a new tire and continued to the border!

Just before we got there we pulled into the bus company's office and a guy came on and asked everyone for their tickets. All the other people on the bus were going all the way to Bangkok and got tickets for their journey after they walked over the border. After giving my ticket to the guy he tried to give me a ticket from the boarder to Bangkok. After trying to explain about 4 times that I'd only paid to go to the border, I took the ticket which got me a seat on a nice air-con bus back to Bangkok, result!!!



"Oh dear" said the driver....

Monday, August 06, 2007

The Legendary Angkor Temples!

The Angkor period ran from the 9th to the 15th century, when the king of cambodia was supposedly the 'god-king'. The Angkor area was the capital at the time and each new monarch would build themselves spectacular temples, usually out-dooing the previous heads of state. In 1431 the capital was sacked by Thai invaders and the population moved south to the current capital of Phnom Penh. The result is a huge area full of amazing temples and palaces between 600-1100 years old, mostly in ruins.

The most famous is Angkor Wat, the largest single religious monument in the world. The Wat is surrounded by a huge moat and a big wall, about 3.6km long! Inside there are three rectangular galleries, each raised above the next. At the centre of the temple stands a quincunx of towers. It took about 2 hours to look around Angkor Wat. The details of carvings on the walls and sheer size of the spectacular buildings was amazing to see. You are allowed to climb around everywhere and there were some great views of teh complex.

Many of the temples have been restored in one way or another over the years but some are little more than piles of rubble. A load of the temples were even covered completely by jungle before historians cleared it away! One of these temples, Ta Prohm, was used as a location for the film Tomb Raider and is covered with huge trees spreading their roots everywhere and even knocking down walls!

The area of Angkor Thom is 9 square kilometers and was the last capital of Angkor. It contains lots of temples, including Baphuon, the Terrace of the Elephants, Phimeanakas, the Royal Palace, the Terrace of the Leper King, Tep Pranam and Preah Palilay, the Prasats Suor Prat, the South Khleang, the North Khleang, and Preah Pithu. I found the Khleangs very interesting. They were collections of red-stone buildings in a line and looked amazing against the background of the light green grass. It is said that they were used for royal performances and later for trials. Each party would be locked inside a building and the first to succombe to disease was proven guilty!

Another temple worth mentioning is the Bayon, which has 54 square towers, each with four huge smiling faces, one carved into each side. It is theorised that at the time Cambodia was split into 54 provinces and each of the faces looked to all four corners of each province to make sure the subjects were behaving themselves.

We looked at all these and more over three days and decided to do it by bicycle. It was a 6km scary ride there (the Cambodians all drive like madmen) and we usually did about 20km in the day. The first day I had a really good mountain bike with 21 grear and suspension but as the days went on, and my funds decreased (faster than i expected, as usual!) my bike got progressively worse until the third day when I had a womens bike with 1 gear and a basket! It was so much fun cruising around the place at our own pace and we got to see some of the really out-of-the-way stuff (not to mention the fact that it was cheaper!). By the end of the three days I was all templed out and ready for another interesting ride back to Bangkok....






My bike action view on the first day - riding a bike on the roads in Cambodia is crazy, but fun!



A tower at the outer entrance of Angkor Wat



The outer walls stretched for a few miles!



Me stepping through



The whole place was covered in amazing carvings



The inside temples at Angkor Wat



There were lots of carvings on the walls



A geko-type creature I found inside the temple!



Sitting where a throne used to be



The view out a window in Angkor Wat



The inner tier of the Wat was made entirely of huge stone blocks



Looking out the window at the Western library



Standing at the top of the Wat the view over the whole complex was stunning



The rear entrance to Angkor Wat



Ta Prohm Kel



Phnom Bakheng



Cambodian writing at Phnom Bakheng



Warriors fighting to control a serpant demon



Angkor Thom main gate



The Bayon temples



Carvings on the walls of Bayon



Carvings of warriors sailing out to sea on a boat



Another detailed carving in Bayon



The Bayon Temple has 56 square towers, each with four faces



Phiemenakas Temple



Taking in the view from the top of Phiemenakas Temple



By the third day funds were low so I could only afford a girls bike with one gear - it had a nice basket though!



The Hindu temple Prasat Kravan



The entrance gates to Ta Prohm, where Tomb Raider was filmed



Each of the stones in this arch are so heavy they could kill you....naturally they decided to prop it up with an old piece of wood



In fact, most of the temple was held up with random bits of stick!



I was lucky to escape this fierce lion!



Nature fights back - this temple was completly covered in forest until it was cleared a few years ago but some of the trees remain